Week 4 - Sainte Luce


Week 4 has started wet….. Wednesday and Thursday were pretty awful, it rained constantly for those two days (and nights), the bungalows were damp and so was everything in it including me.

Activities for the week are as follows: for 1-2, 4 and 6-8 read week one.

Because of the rain the activities changed for the days and we had some interesting tasks, we had to sweep the forest paths of leaves (even though the rain was bringing more down) and we went off to collect Zebu poo (Zebus are cows that the Malagasy have as a form of wealth) for compost. We collected two big baskets of poo and mashed it up and mulched it into the dirt for the planting bags. I always say that I shovel shit at work but now I really know how to!

Zebu in Madagascar show the sign of wealth. Over the years to have a big Zebu herd meant you were really rich and people traded in Zebu rather than money. Since the Chinese have been in Madagascar (and the wealth of the people in China has grown and their food tastes have turned to meat), Zebu have been purchased by the Chinese, slaughtered here and the meat sent back to China. It is a cheaper meat to import than American beef. The problem is this caused a black market of Zebu with many being stolen to sell to the Chinese and there hasn’t been sustainable Zebu farming here so there is now a shortage of Zebu and the wealth it once created has gone, eaten by the Chinese.

Beach plastic collection was a challenge as we were being blown along the beach and the rain was relentless but we soldiered on regardless and picked up loads of plastic and ropes. Unfortunately we don’t touch the sides of the amount of rubbish on the beach, but every little helps.

We also collected the rainwater for the water containers so that the guys don’t have to fill up the toilets cistern and sinks for us to live here.

There is nothing worse than having a really wet day followed but a really wet night and our spirits plunged on those days. Added to this we only have solar power here so we couldn’t charge anything as there was no power, bringing a kindle to read wasn’t such a good idea at this time…..

The rain stopped on Friday (showers but nothing as bad as the past two days) and Saturday when we went to the villages normal service had been resumed and blue skies were back. When we went to the village I did have some comedy gold. Sarah had hurt her foot and wanted to keep it dry, easier said than done with the size of the puddles from the rain. The boys who came with us, to help row the pirogue across and get the fish for supper, picked her up and carried her across the puddles in the most inelegant way possible i.e. legs akimbo. I do have a video of this but I did promise not to post it on my blog (sorry).

My last Saturday night so it was party night - well a celebratory beer (this is the only night the volunteers can drink) so we had two beers, listened to music and learnt some Malagasy disco dance moves. A lot of the music here has an element of Soca here so I was in my element!

As I went to my bungalow to get something my flashlight caught a movement by my closed door, it was a rat trying to get in! We set traps for it just in case it came back, rats are not indigenous and definitely not wanted in the camp as there are no fridges, everything is left out in the kitchen and we don’t want half munched food. We were unsuccessful catching the rat which I am sort of glad of as the traps are not humane at all. Although the guards will beat them to death with a shovel if they corner them!!!!

My full final day we went off to the land that the mining company owns to collect seeds from hardwood trees to make the reserve here stronger. As we went into the forest we saw some farmers who, were found out later, would be ejected from the land once mining commenced. We were told that they would have to -in the nearby village, but they are not fishermen so will have to learn a new trade to survive. The issue is in Madagascar that land has been passed down as inherited land in the villages and bush areas, there is no contract of ownership so the government just sells the land from underneath them.

My last morning there was tinged with sadness, I have thoroughly enjoyed my time here and am sad to say goodbye to everyone, but must move onto my next adventure. I am looking forward to returning to civilisation for two days to have a hot shower and something other than rice though!

After a lovely shower, seafood supper and sleep in a proper bed, rather than a mattress on the floor, I am ready to move onto my marine experience. I’m not sure of the wifi service in Ifaty so communication via blog could be sketchy - speak soon! 


I didn't share the video but I have sneaked a photo in!

beautiful happy people - despite the poverty

why are you photographing me?

model potential

fish sales are good today

the women at the front are net fishing for small fish, while the men are in the pirogue 

a 'toy' car made of sugar cane chassis and fig wheels

they start young selling their wares

rare traveller palms on the reserve



black ground boa









planting trees on the plains

on the way to collect seeds










finding seeds!


shovelling shite
the last supper











Nambi - guard


Sanna  - excellent cook
Tahina - groundsman

Solo - head groundsman
Laheri - guard and body guard for swimming on the beach....





the sun sets on my time at Sainte Luce


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